Parts4Karts

Driving a kart in the wet isn’t all about being super-smooth and being frightened that the kart will bite you for pushing it hard. In fact, I will say when driving in the wet you have to be much more physical, much more forceful and drive with flair. Wet karting gives you even more opportunity to let yourself go- more than the dry even!!
So before we start, forget about being ultra-delicate on the brakes and turning the steering wheel tentatively (save that for when you get into F3)….we are going to talk about stamping on the brakes to make tyres bite into the track, and snapping the steering wheel round like you want to bend the track rods!

The Wet Line

Is the fastest line around the track in the wet the same as in the dry? 99% of the time the answer is no. I can’t tell you the exact wet line for every track here, but I can give you a pretty good place to start.

Stay off the Rubber

In the dry the best grip is normally found on the normal racing line, and that is where all the tyre rubber gets laid down giving even more grip. But when it rains, rubber is super slippery- so you have to go and find a new line where there is no rubber. Normally its round the outside of the corner.

Take a look at your circuit before you drive and you can easily see the darker racing line covered in rubber, and where you can see a lighter colour there isn’t so much rubber….and in the wet that’s where you want your kart to be! Keep those observations in mind when driving in the wet. You will find you need to experiment using the wet line, and there will be more than one way round on a wet line. You have to go out there and feel where that grip is
That’s pretty much it with the wet line…not so mysterious really

Wet Driving Techniques- It Just Doesn’t Seem Right but it Works!!

Ok, for a kart to work and get you around a corner it needs to lift the rear wheel on the inside of the kart, and to do that it needs a certain amount of grip to get the chassis to roll over toward the outside front wheel.

Now, in the wet you find there just isn’t enough grip around to get a kart to do that easily…..so we have to force the kart to tip!

Here’s how we go about forcing the kart to work in the wet.

Lets say you are approaching a tight 90 degree left bend, like The Boot at Whilton.

1. When you brake hit the pedal in a short sharp motion, enough to get the rear tyres to lock almost and bite into the track. A nice gentle push on the brake just won’t do because it kills the kart. We want the kart to feel quite lively, and you need to get it working and biting so you can get a feel for what grip is available. Also, you want to reduce the amount of time on the brakes and braking needs to be out of the way before you turn in.

2. Remember we are taking a wet line away from the rubber. So we turn into the boot very very late. And when you turn the wheel you snap it into full lock…hard and fast.

Now, the kart doesn’t turn and spin….you turned the wheel so fast and it’s like you shocked it into a huge understeer. But, you are also getting maximum jacking effect from the front end and when the kart finds a bit of grip it will turn….and it will turn very sharp.

Also, since the front end is sliding, it is slowing you down too- acting like front brakes.

3.When you snap that steering wheel round, you will naturally need to lean forward a little because turning the wheel will extend your reach. That’s a good thing and you should lean forward and towards the outside of the kart. In doing that you are taking weight from the rear and putting it over the front, which helps the kart to lift that rear inside wheel.

4. When you get the timing right, you will find the kart turns quite hard and sharp, that’s when you need to get your weight back over the rear wheels, get the steering straight as possible and accelerate away, intoduce the power gradually feeling for traction…always being careful to get as much traction as possible.

So, next time you see a forecast for rain get the van loaded up and rush over to your local circuit, get out there and try all this out.That’s what Ayrton Senna used to do!

At first you will find it very difficult to put all these new ideas together, but stick at it because I promise you it will put you at the front when you work it out

Bump starting a kart for the first time can be a nightmare. We have all been there out of breath, and exhausted because the engine won’t fire! Well, karting guru Ian Turner (ITPro) from the halls of the UK Karting forums, reveals the technique of bump starting a kart for Karting 1 so you don’t have to make the mistakes -

This is ONE man’s view on the best way to SUCCESSFULLY push start a 2-stroke, direct drive kart: it’s not the ONLY way.

I’ve written the article as though all the participants are male and right handed. This is obviously untrue but it makes the writing simpler if I write for the majority. Please do not take offense to this style; none is meant! Two of my quickest ever teammates were female and one was left-handed!

Preparation

The first thing to do is to check that everything is working BEFORE you get to the track, preferably, on a stand in your garage.

Safety

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER try starting the kart by putting a rope/strap round the tiree and pulling. It MAY work but it MAY also KILL YOU. The end of the rope can get caught in the chain/axle or whatever and it will ‘reel you in’ and cut you to ribbons. If you’re lucky, you’ll just lose a hand or an arm, if you’re not..……………………..

Spark Plug

Remove the plug and reconnect it to the plug lead. Lay the plug on TOP of the engine (preferably, with the sparking end AWAY from the plug hole as it can ignite any fuel in there; it may be fun but it’s not too clever!). You MUST make sure that the metal of the spark plug makes good contact with the main metal of engine whenever you spin the wheels or you can damage the ignition system. Now spin the rear wheels and you should see a healthy (fat) spark. If it looks feeble, buy a new plug.

Check the spark plug is clean and not ‘wet’ (oily or dripping fuel). The ideal color is from ‘brand new’ to mid-brown. Black is OK but it’s better to get a wire brush and clean it up. If it’s caked in rubbish of any color (a bit like the ‘fur’ in the kettle), clean it or chuck it!

If you don’t get a ‘fat’ spark even with a new plug, your ignition system has a problem and it’s NEVER going to run without skilled help.

Remember what the clean, dry plug looks like as this comes into play when we get to the ‘starting’ part of this article.

Fuel System

Your carburetor has an inbuilt fuel pump. The action of turning the motor causes the pressure to rise and fall inside the crankcase. There is a connection between your crankcase and the carburetor (a tube or a drill hole in the rear of the carburetor) that uses those changes in pressure to pump the fuel. Many things can fail in a carburetor but they can all be fixed. The simplest test is to check that the fuel pump is pumping! Remove the spark plug, reconnect the plug lead and make sure the plug makes good contact with the cylinder head. Now, place the flat of your hand over the air intake (at home, it’s easier with the air box removed), open the throttle FULLY and spin the wheels quite briskly. You should now see fuel moving up the pipe to the carburetor. What’s happening is that an engine is really an ‘air-pump’; when you turn it, air goes in through the carburetor and out the exhaust. By blocking the air intake, you are preventing the air getting in and the pressure inside the carburetor drops and that ‘sucks’ the fuel in. You MUST open the throttle or this ‘choking’ trick DOES NOTHING AT ALL (many people don’t know that!)! This is because the main fuel inlet is on the ‘other side’ of the ‘throttle’. So, if it’s not open, it DOESN’T ‘suck’ the fuel in!

If fuel doesn’t come up, you need to check that all the fuel lines from the tank to the carburetor are connected properly. If the pipe/s are too stiff, they can let air in and stop the fuel from moving. Buy good quality fuel lines. Un-leaded fuel is really aggressive stuff and pipes harden very quickly if you leave it in the pipes after driving the kart. It’s a good idea to empty the fuel pipe as much as possible after each race/practice day. The pipe will last much longer this way.

Once you’ve got the fuel up to the carburetor, you can check if the fuel pump is working. Take your hand off the air intake and spin the wheels again. You should be able to see the fuel ‘moving’ very slightly in the fuel pipe. This is the action of the pump on the fuel, not the ‘choking’ reaction. It’s not a problem if there are small bubbles (up to about 1cm) in the fuel line as this is quite normal. In some ways, they are quite an advantage as you can see what’s going on with the fuel. You may need to use the ‘choking’ method BEFORE you can test the pump. To work properly, the pump should have fuel all the way up to (or very near to) the carburetor. If you have not ‘choked’ the fuel all the way to the carburetor, the fairly feeble pumping may not be strong enough to overcome the air
inside the fuel pipe.

This is a LONG explanation; but there are many other things that can still be ‘wrong’ even if everything checks out perfectly up to this point. But, if you have a FAT spark and fuel up to the carburetor, you are 90% of the way there.

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As a driver coach I get asked more about making great starts than any other subject. It seems that there are loads of drivers who can put together quick laps and make passing moves no problem….but they get such bad starts that the race is already ruined before the end of the first lap.

So, here is how I help some of the UK’s best drivers get great starts.

Step 1.

The key to getting a good start is confidence and self-assurance. The biggest problem for drivers at the start of a race is that they get a sensory overload. There is just way too much going on around them to be able to make the right move at the right time.

Normally to get over being overloaded I would suggest get out and practice, but there is a limited supply of race starts….you don’t get to practice starts enough. So use the next best thing. Visualisation.

Sounds like psychological rubbish I know, but frankly it works wonders with my drivers and will make your starts go much better if you take it seriously. Here’s what you need to do.

1. Take time out before your race and sit down somewhere relatively quiet. Take a look at where you are starting, who is beside you and who is in front.

2. Now make a plan of exactly how you want your start to go. Lets imagine you are starting in 8th place with a grid of 20. You need to make a plan about how your perfect start will go. Imagine that you are going to fly across the line. Pass the guy inside you going over the line and then stuff it up the inside of the 6th place kart into the first corner.

3. You need to make this plan seem real! So say to yourself exactly what’s going to happen. Make decisions about every move you are going to make.

4. Then sit there and imagine exactly how the whole of the first lap will go. And you have to imagine the best first lap ever. Passing a kart every opportunity.

Ok, so now you have a mental plan of the start, if you take it seriously you will feel a sense of confidence and power on your way to the grid. Here’s the next step.

Sit in your kart on the dummy grid. Go through the plan you made earlier and visualise that perfect first lap again. Now, the next thing is to prepare yourself to take control of the other drivers around you. Chances are they are not nearly as prepared as you are right now. So you have the advantage over them and you are the most confident driver there!

The rolling lap. This is the time to really think over how your planned start is going to happen. Focus on the kart ahead of you and stick to the rear of that kart like glue. Don’t worry if you give it a few bumps here and there…you really need to stay close.

The start. Here is the most important practical piece of advice I can give you. Whatever happens you have to go first. You have to accelerate before the driver ahead of you. Now, you might say that it’s too risky to do that because you will hit him…..But, you won’t hit him if you stick to his bumper so close that there is never any space between you! So if you push him gently over the line that’s fine, at least he didn’t get away. So, if you are always so close to the driver in front that you are touching, then you will be able to hit the gas before him without the worry that you will whack him up the arse and crash!

And once you get over the line you are into your plan. Make the moves, make that perfect first lap happen.

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Mounting Your Lead / Weights – This is the part of the regulations I’ve become most familiar with over the years. The most important thing you need to know is that your lead must be securely attached to either your seat or the main frame of the kart. So, no lead in your shoes, no lead in your pockets, even when you’ve run out of room to put it all! You are also required in the regulations to use large washers when mounting your led to your seat. It’s not just safe, it’s sensible, because it will help your seat last longer in the long run.

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Wheels and Hubs – There’s only one common sense thing you need to know about your wheel hubs. They have to made of metal, and they have to be keyed to the axle. Hopefully you got all that! There are some pretty specific things you need to remember for your wheels though, so maybe you should double check next time you go out racing. Basically, the maximum width of your front tires should be 135 mm. Your rear dry tires can be between 175 and 185 mm.

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Tire Pressures

How do you know what pressure to run? This can be of personal preference to some racers. Generally, on an average day when the track is dry and you have your slicks on a good pressure to start at is around 14-16 psi. Once you get out racing on the track your tires will heat up and the pressure inside will build. Depending on how hot it is outside you can expect the pressure to rise between 1-3 psi. You can then add or release pressure depending on how you feel out on the track. Some people also split up the pressures and add more on the front go kart wheels or tires and less on the back or visa-versa to improve their cornering. It’s a good habit to start checking your tires before you go out on the track each time. This ensures your pressures are good and that you don’t have a tire malfunction like a leak causing a flat tire!

If you are racing with rain tires, you may want to increase the pressure by about 1-5 psi. Once the track dries out though, ensure you change back to slicks as soon as possible. If you don’t your rain tires could get worn out quickly!

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Rains

Rain tires are specially designed to help you race in the rain. Some people hate it, but with the right knowledge and some practice racing in the rain can be just as fun as in the sun. The grooves in the rain tires reduce the amount of contact area that a slick tire would give and therefore help keep you on the track. They are constructed the same way as slicks in the way that they have a compounded rubber tread surface that can again be made for more grip or resistance to wear depending on the compound type.

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Go kart wheels or tire information is sometimes hard to come by. Go kart tires are specially designed for fast paced racing. We depend on these tires to keep us on the track and get us around those tight corners without getting off track. There are two types of go kart racing tires: slicks for dry racing and rains (grooved tires) for wet/rainy racing.

Slicks

There are a few different brands of slick racing tires to choose from. They include Dunlop, Vega, Bridgestone and Mojo to name a few. These go kart wheels or tires are specially designed to make as much contact as possible with the track underneath of you to ensure excellent grip and a precise center of gravity for the go kart. This helps the go kart stick to the track and nail those corners increasing speed. The tread is made of a thin layer of rubber that includes a various amount of compounds that make the tire have either really good grip or have a greater resistance to wear.

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Go Kart Set Up can be a pain if you aren’t prepared. Many beginners who buy go karts for racing are overwhelmed when it comes down to the last week before racing season and the kart hasn’t been set up yet! What do you do!? The main thing is to not make too many adjustments at one time. You will need to keep notes of all you changes and test on the track between each change. If you make more then a couple changes as you get closer to fine tuning, you won’t know which one was the one that made you faster. It is also important that you have your line set at the track you are testing at. It makes no sense to see improvements in your lap time come from driving a better line now. The answer is simple as long as you follow important steps and make sure you have everything you’re going to need. We will detail those out tomorrow.

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Go Kart Cornering sounds like it would be pretty simple. Most people you might ask would tell you the best way to drive a go kart is put the peddle to the metal and get off that brake!! There’s more to it though, obviously, and everyone could use a few pointers on how to drive the perfect line.

The line is simply the safest and fastest way around the track. It may not always be the shortest, but it is the most efficient way for braking and acceleration. If you can drive this line smoothly and quickly you will definitely dominate the track.

The Basics of Go Kart Cornering:

Before you start, try and keep one thing in mind. Getting fast quick depends totally on your ability to be smooth! Any sudden movements on the brake, throttle or steering causes resistance and slows you down through the corners. It takes practice, and seat time in your kart is important! But the smoother you get, the faster you’ll be. And going fast is the point right?! To a degree it is, But, depending on the type of track coming out of the corner, you will set up and execute differently. If you have a long straight coing out of the turn, exit speed will be even more important.

- As your approaching a corner, it’s recommended you place your kart on the outside of the track, staying on the gas.
- At the right moment, ease onto the brake firmly staying in a straight line
- Come off the break and ease back onto the throttle as you turn into the corner
- Maintain your power and aim for the inside edge of the track as your turn the corner. Maintaining the power is crucial to ensure you have plenty of speed coming out of the turn.

Again, staying smooth through the corners, and maintaining your speed through them is crucial. You’ll find that until you get smooth at your go kart cornering, you’ll be coming out slower than those who are and it will frustrate you! Just focus. Practice up!

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