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Racing In The Rain

March 25, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving, handling

Driving a kart in the wet isn’t all about being super-smooth and being frightened that the kart will bite you for pushing it hard. In fact, I will say when driving in the wet you have to be much more physical, much more forceful and drive with flair. Wet karting gives you even more opportunity to let yourself go- more than the dry even!!
So before we start, forget about being ultra-delicate on the brakes and turning the steering wheel tentatively (save that for when you get into F3)….we are going to talk about stamping on the brakes to make tyres bite into the track, and snapping the steering wheel round like you want to bend the track rods!

The Wet Line

Is the fastest line around the track in the wet the same as in the dry? 99% of the time the answer is no. I can’t tell you the exact wet line for every track here, but I can give you a pretty good place to start.

Stay off the Rubber

In the dry the best grip is normally found on the normal racing line, and that is where all the tyre rubber gets laid down giving even more grip. But when it rains, rubber is super slippery- so you have to go and find a new line where there is no rubber. Normally its round the outside of the corner.

Take a look at your circuit before you drive and you can easily see the darker racing line covered in rubber, and where you can see a lighter colour there isn’t so much rubber….and in the wet that’s where you want your kart to be! Keep those observations in mind when driving in the wet. You will find you need to experiment using the wet line, and there will be more than one way round on a wet line. You have to go out there and feel where that grip is
That’s pretty much it with the wet line…not so mysterious really

Wet Driving Techniques- It Just Doesn’t Seem Right but it Works!!

Ok, for a kart to work and get you around a corner it needs to lift the rear wheel on the inside of the kart, and to do that it needs a certain amount of grip to get the chassis to roll over toward the outside front wheel.

Now, in the wet you find there just isn’t enough grip around to get a kart to do that easily…..so we have to force the kart to tip!

Here’s how we go about forcing the kart to work in the wet.

Lets say you are approaching a tight 90 degree left bend, like The Boot at Whilton.

1. When you brake hit the pedal in a short sharp motion, enough to get the rear tyres to lock almost and bite into the track. A nice gentle push on the brake just won’t do because it kills the kart. We want the kart to feel quite lively, and you need to get it working and biting so you can get a feel for what grip is available. Also, you want to reduce the amount of time on the brakes and braking needs to be out of the way before you turn in.

2. Remember we are taking a wet line away from the rubber. So we turn into the boot very very late. And when you turn the wheel you snap it into full lock…hard and fast.

Now, the kart doesn’t turn and spin….you turned the wheel so fast and it’s like you shocked it into a huge understeer. But, you are also getting maximum jacking effect from the front end and when the kart finds a bit of grip it will turn….and it will turn very sharp.

Also, since the front end is sliding, it is slowing you down too- acting like front brakes.

3.When you snap that steering wheel round, you will naturally need to lean forward a little because turning the wheel will extend your reach. That’s a good thing and you should lean forward and towards the outside of the kart. In doing that you are taking weight from the rear and putting it over the front, which helps the kart to lift that rear inside wheel.

4. When you get the timing right, you will find the kart turns quite hard and sharp, that’s when you need to get your weight back over the rear wheels, get the steering straight as possible and accelerate away, intoduce the power gradually feeling for traction…always being careful to get as much traction as possible.

So, next time you see a forecast for rain get the van loaded up and rush over to your local circuit, get out there and try all this out.That’s what Ayrton Senna used to do!

At first you will find it very difficult to put all these new ideas together, but stick at it because I promise you it will put you at the front when you work it out

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Bump Starting Your Kart Part 3

March 25, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving

Easy Start Wheels

Kart shops sell all sorts of easy starting tools from long handles levers with wheels to things that look like tall skinny roller skates. You use these to hold the kart off the ground while the pusher gets up to speed and then ‘drops’ the kart onto the track and carries on pushing. Of the two, I prefer the short roller skate type but, as a first choice, I’d go for the old-fashioned un-assisted lift and push even though I’m 50 years old (and fat)!

You can buy a device that bolts a single ‘additional wheel on a lever’ onto the underside of the kart. You lock it into position, push the kart and then release the lock, which collapses the wheel out of the way. These are great but they add weight. They also make one more thing that can go wrong on the kart! However, they do allow the driver to ‘trundle’ the kart back to the pits if it fails on the circuit.

DRIVER RUNNING

This is the MOST ‘professional’ way! Assuming there are two of you, the pusher does exactly as before but the driver stands on the RIGHT hand side of the kart with his LEFT hand on the rear of the seat and the RIGHT hand on the top of the wheel. The pusher does exactly the same as with the driver seated but he now has almost no weight to lift. Once the kart is ‘airborne’ and moving forwards, the pusher and the driver MUST push down to stop the wheels from skidding as it hits the ground. As before, the pusher KEEPS PUSHING!

The driver runs with the kart for about 3 metres and then swings himself into position and this should be practiced first ON YOUR OWN with the kart stationary. The driver is trying to lift himself into the kart by supporting his weight on the top of the wheel and the back of the seat. The driver then swings himself into the kart so that his RIGHT foot lands just behind the throttle peddle and the LEFT foot lands in the centre of the seat AT THE SAME MOMENT! Bring the LEFT hand to the wheel and get your LEFT foot behind the brake pedal while sitting down. (The kart WILL start whether you have your foot near the brake pedal or not; it’s up to you how important this is to you. Think of the implications if the throttle is stuck wide open and you don’t have your foot near the brake!). Your RIGHT hand now goes to the ‘Hovering Choke’ position.

It all sounds REALLY complicated but it isn’t! Practice with a stationary kart until you can easily swing yourself in. Then try with it with your pusher but with the spark plug out (but ‘strapped’ to the top of the engine). This will make sure it won’t start and there will be little or no rolling resistance. You can obviously do this on your driveway or down the pavement if the plug is out! You can even do this on your own (with the plug out) and you will be shocked how simple it all is! The first few times can be embarrassing as you accidentally turn the steering wheel and run over your foot but you’ll get the hang of it very quickly.

As I said, this is the professional method. If you master this technique, you don’t NEED a pusher because you can do it all on your own! It’s not so important IN the pits but it WILL get you going again out on the track once you have spun off! You’ll find you don’t need to LIFT the kart right off the ground, just slightly release the weight (by pulling the seat upward) and you can simply SLIDE it before you push it DOWN to turn the motor over. Once it’s moving along quickly, you can jump in but you must get to the throttle pedal quickly to get you going. The engine will probably be warm and should start without choke!

What to do if it doesn’t start after a ‘good’ push?

There are usually two possible reasons (assuming everything else checked out properly, earlier). Either, you have choked too little or you have chokes too MUCH!

If you can see fuel dripping out of the carburetor or air box, obviously, you’ve choked too much! However, it may not be visible. You can get over this by pushing it again with NO CHOKING BUT FULL THROTTLE! It may well start as the engine is, in effect, fully choked already! However, it may be too flooded (over choked) to start.

You can check if it’s flooded or not by removing the spark plug and looking at it. If it’s wet and/or oily, you’ve choked too much. If it’s dry, …. well do I need to tell you? Please do this checking IN YOUR PIT BAY! The reason is simply SAFETY. If you are on the side of the track with 1 or two pushers fiddling with the spark plugs, there is a GOOD chance someone will crash into you! A dry plug tells you try again but choke and push for longer! How far should you push? Until your pushers drop in a small heap! I have done well over 100 metres as a solo pusher and managed to get it going in the end!

A wet plug means that you need to dry it and get rid of the excess fuel in the engine. Firstly, put the kart back on the stand and clean and dry the plug. A spray can of ‘EASY START’ (yellow and black spray can of almost pure ether; any car spares shop sells it) does the job VERY well. This washes the oil out of the plug. A small wire brush will clean up the plug nicely. Plugs DO fail and it’s well worth buying the CORRECT plug for the weather conditions; ask your kart shop for the right plug for the conditions. A wrong plug on the wrong day can melt the piston so GET IT RIGHT!

If the plug was VERY wet and oily, the inside of the engine will also be very wet and it’s a good idea to dry it out as much as possible. You can do this by rapidly spinning the rear wheels with the plug out (but connected!) and the throttle fully open. If it’s very wet, you will see plumes of oil/petrol spray ejected from the plug hole; GOOD! Do use some sense about smoking near this little lot!

Now put the plug back and start again.

As a last resort before abandoning the project, try to borrow a spark plug that’s still HOT from being run in another kart. That little bit of heat can make the difference. Once it’s running (one or two laps), come back to the pits and change back to your own plug! Be careful when handling HOT plugs, they will burn if you’re not careful

That’s about it! Other problems may still prevent it starting but that will indicate a mechanical failure somewhere and that is probably going to need professional help.

Summary

Mechanic
Check Fuel and Spark before going to the track
Get fuel up to Carb before getting ready to push
Pushers
Do some back-warming exercises
Stand with one foot forward and one back while looking UP as high as you can
Right hand on bumper, left hand on seat back
Lift 5cms up and carry for 1 metre
Push down and KEEP PUSHING and KEEP LOOKING UP.
Don’t let the driver trap your hand in the seat
When the kart start, KEEP RUNNING and checking behind you until you get off the track

Drivers
Lean forward over the steering wheel
‘Hover’ your hand over inlet
Once rolling, sit back in the seat (but let pushers ‘escape’)
Until the engine fires
0-5 metres no choke, slight throttle setting
6-30 metres, full choke and FULL throttle
30+ metres, no choke but FULL throttle
Once it fires, REDUCE THROTTLE but ‘hover’ hand over the inlet!

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Bump Starting Your Kart Part 2

March 25, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving

Starting the Kart at the Track

Starting is all about getting the kart moving forward and KEEPING it moving forward until it’s able to accelerate way on its own.

To make life easier, make sure everything is ready BEFORE you start pushing. You will have checked the spark is good and ‘fat’ and that the fuel is getting to the carburetor BEFORE getting to the track. Now make life easier by getting the fuel up to the carburetor BEFORE you start pushing. You can do this by 'rocking' the rear wheels back and forth while 'choking' (as discussed before). DO NOT MAKE THE ENGINE TURN OVER BY HAND; it may well START and trap your hands! You can do this while sitting in the seat or with the kart on the stand. Once the fuel is up and ready, we're nearly ready to push the kart.

There are two basic methods:
1) Driver Seated
2) Driver Running!

DRIVER SEATED

Lucky (or rich drivers) have two pushers, but one is plenty, if he is reasonably fit and sensible and he really does not need to be an ‘Arnold Schwarzeneggar’! There’s no way round it, the angle and the task is not good for the pusher’s back; those with troubled backs or hernias should NOT apply! It’s also a good idea for the pusher to do a few backstretches before he goes for each new attempt.

Firstly, get the driver to lean right OVER the steering wheel. The driver should attempt to grab the FRONT bumper! This moves the weight forward and makes the pusher's job MUCH easier. You can improve on this if the driver sits on the front EDGE of the seat as well as leaning over. It makes the kart 'feel' about HALF the weight to the pushers and this is VERY worthwhile

Lifting

The driver should also try this bit so he can see that the pushers have to do. It's all about getting your bum as LOW as possible.

The Wrong Way

With a driver seated, try placing your feet so that both of your legs just touching the rear bumper and both hands are on the bumper and then lift the kart. You'll find that you can only move very slowly forward in small steps as you keep banging your ankles on the bumper. You'll also notice that the pusher's center of gravity is almost over the rear bumper. This is OBVIOUSLY the wrong way to do it! However, this is exactly what all beginners do; hence their problems starting the kart!

The Right Way

With a driver seated, stand with your RIGHT foot under the rear bumper and your LEFT foot about 3/4s of a metre back. Place your right hand on the bumper (to lift it) and your LEFT hand on the back of the seat, just to steady yourself. You'll only be lifting the kart with your RIGHT hand. You'll now notice that your bum is MUCH lower than before and that you don't bang your ankles on the bumper. Ideally, the pushers want to look as HIGH into the sky as possible by 'craning' their necks back as far as they can go! The pushers **** MUST NOT **** look down at the kart or the track! You'll notice that, the higher the pusher looks:
1) the lower their bums are
2) the further back they will have moved their left foot .
3) the further back their center of gravity has moved

This will allow them NOT to fall over when they have started the kart; more about this later. KEEP THEM LOOKING UP!

Oddly enough, when you get used to this, you'll find that you lean DOWN with the LEFT hand on the back of the seat while you are LIFTING the kart with your RIGHT hand. This lets the pusher’s Centre of Gravity even further back and leaning forward on the back of the seat (with the left hand) is the start of the PUSHING action

Lift and Push

An engine does not want to turn over as the compression is holding the piston 'back'. We lift the kart so we can get some forward momentum that will be enough to overcome the compression resistance. We don't have to move very far forward before we hit the ground as a walking pace is enough to do the job of overcoming the initial resistance! Similarly, we don't need to lift it very high, just enough to get the kart moving without the friction of the rear wheels. About 5 cm is the MAXIMUM you need to lift. Any more than that and the nose cone will be rubbing on the ground, which makes it harder.

The first part of the pusher's job is to lift the kart, move forward about 1 metre and then PUSH it down and forward onto the track. They should be prepared to CONTINUE pushing for a good few metres; their job has not finished…….. YET!

Now for the driver! Engines need a mixture of Fuel and Air at a specific ratio to run. The colder the air (and the engine) the MORE fuel is needed in that ratio. Stone cold engines on a cold day need MUCH more fuel in the mixture than hot engines on a hot day. Older cars were fitted with a Choke Knob or Lever to adjust this ratio, nowadays, that ‘choke’ is automatic. Karts don't have automatic chokes (most don't have ANY sort of choke!) so you need to be your OWN choke. It's as the name implies, you are trying to STRANGLE (choke!) the engine by cutting off its air supply. You do this by placing the FLAT of your hand over the air intake. What happens is that the air can't get in so any 'suction' inside the carburetor pulls in extra fuel instead. Remember to open the throttle FULLY or choking is a complete waste of time!

Just before the pushers start their work you should have your hand OVER the air intake but NOT actually closing the intake off just yet. I just rest my fingers on the casing/airbox so that I can choke if I need to without frantically searching for the opening. Once you're helmeted and seated, it can be hard to find the air intake in a hurry, so: Be Prepared!.

As the kart hits the ground, slide back into a proper seating position. You will have previously warned the pushers to move their hand AWAY from the back of the seat once the kart has hit the ground or your will TRAP them as you sit back! If they get trapped, you will drag them along the pit lane, not too much fun that! Get them to transfer their hands (smoothly) to your shoulders and KEEP pushing and KEEP LOOKING UP!!!!!!! Make their job easier by not leaning QUITE ALL the way back; if they've forgotten about getting trapped, you have allowed them some freedom to escape.

The driver’s work starts here! It’s highly possible that you won’t need any choke and that choking at all will stall the engine. It’s also highly possible that it will need a LOT of choking. You will gain experience and be able to judge this for you self with practice. However, as a beginner it’s worth getting into a routine based on the distance that you have been pushed!

1) 0 to 5 metres
Don’t Choke. Just start increasing the throttle setting, (if it fires, go to point 4)
2) 6 to 30 metres
Go to full choke (hand firmly over the intake) and FULL THROTTLE, if it fires, lift your hand away from the intake but keep it hovering over the intake just in case it stalls again. (If it fires, go to point 4)
3) 31 metres onward
If your pusher is still going, take your hand away from the inlet (but ‘hover’) and give FULL THROTTLE. If you have prepared as discussed and you have been choking for 30 metres, it’s more than likely that the engine is now flooded rather than being starved of fuel. Full throttle will allow the engine to dry out a little and it may fire IF your pusher can keep going! (If it fires go to point 4).
4) The engine fires
Once it fires, lift your hand a SHORT distance away from the air intake so as to let in unrestricted air but still with your hand ‘hovering’, to be ready to apply full choke if the engine tries to stall as it may WELL do! If you've put your hand back on the steering, wheel it's much more of a game to re-find the air intake before it stalls.

Obviously, when it starts to fire, you will 'un-choke' (if you have been) and you should also REDUCE the throttle position. It is WRONG to accelerate away at FULL throttle within the pits! Out on the track, it's OK if it's safe (no pushers ahead of you) but that happens all too rarely! It's also a very clear sign of lack of mechanical sympathy. Anyone who accelerates an engine (cold OR hot) to full throttle and full revs immediately after starting shows they do not understand ANYTHING about engines! If you see people do this, simply think "IMBECILE!". The list of disasters that can go wrong by abusing your engine in this way is longer than this article!

Remember! Be Prepared! The engine may well try to stall, just put your hand back over the intake and go to full throttle again.

This is why the pushers MUST keep pushing until they can't stay with you! Many engines will stall even after they have started and a 'dead' kart in the middle of the starting straight is NOT much fun for those trying to start their karts behind you. You will find that many karters behind you are looking back at their carburetor as they start their engines and they will drive straight INTO your stationary kart! (I can never imagine what they hope to see back there! Drivers: keep looking FORWARD!) If your pushers are still behind you, the following karts crush your pusher's ankles against your rear bumper; NICE! Tell your pushers they MUST, MUST, MUST KEEP RUNNING once you have started and to CHECK behind them as they RUN off the side of the track/pit lane! All this is just common sense but you would not BELIEVE how RARE that is on a kart track!

As the kart starts, the point of your pushers having a ‘low bum’ and their Center of Gravity as far back as possible comes into play. If they are looking down, with both feet together, they will FALL OVER when the kart starts! If they are looking at the sky, they will be able to stand up and keep running!! The choice is theirs!

If there are only two of you, your pusher MAY not have enough strength to lift and push you. It's not that hard once you've practiced but may well be completely beyond a beginner. There are many alternatives:-

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Bump Starting Your Kart Part 1

March 25, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving, handling

Bump starting a kart for the first time can be a nightmare. We have all been there out of breath, and exhausted because the engine won’t fire! Well, karting guru Ian Turner (ITPro) from the halls of the UK Karting forums, reveals the technique of bump starting a kart for Karting 1 so you don’t have to make the mistakes -

This is ONE man’s view on the best way to SUCCESSFULLY push start a 2-stroke, direct drive kart: it’s not the ONLY way.

I’ve written the article as though all the participants are male and right handed. This is obviously untrue but it makes the writing simpler if I write for the majority. Please do not take offense to this style; none is meant! Two of my quickest ever teammates were female and one was left-handed!

Preparation

The first thing to do is to check that everything is working BEFORE you get to the track, preferably, on a stand in your garage.

Safety

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER try starting the kart by putting a rope/strap round the tiree and pulling. It MAY work but it MAY also KILL YOU. The end of the rope can get caught in the chain/axle or whatever and it will ‘reel you in’ and cut you to ribbons. If you’re lucky, you’ll just lose a hand or an arm, if you’re not..……………………..

Spark Plug

Remove the plug and reconnect it to the plug lead. Lay the plug on TOP of the engine (preferably, with the sparking end AWAY from the plug hole as it can ignite any fuel in there; it may be fun but it’s not too clever!). You MUST make sure that the metal of the spark plug makes good contact with the main metal of engine whenever you spin the wheels or you can damage the ignition system. Now spin the rear wheels and you should see a healthy (fat) spark. If it looks feeble, buy a new plug.

Check the spark plug is clean and not ‘wet’ (oily or dripping fuel). The ideal color is from ‘brand new’ to mid-brown. Black is OK but it’s better to get a wire brush and clean it up. If it’s caked in rubbish of any color (a bit like the ‘fur’ in the kettle), clean it or chuck it!

If you don’t get a ‘fat’ spark even with a new plug, your ignition system has a problem and it’s NEVER going to run without skilled help.

Remember what the clean, dry plug looks like as this comes into play when we get to the ‘starting’ part of this article.

Fuel System

Your carburetor has an inbuilt fuel pump. The action of turning the motor causes the pressure to rise and fall inside the crankcase. There is a connection between your crankcase and the carburetor (a tube or a drill hole in the rear of the carburetor) that uses those changes in pressure to pump the fuel. Many things can fail in a carburetor but they can all be fixed. The simplest test is to check that the fuel pump is pumping! Remove the spark plug, reconnect the plug lead and make sure the plug makes good contact with the cylinder head. Now, place the flat of your hand over the air intake (at home, it’s easier with the air box removed), open the throttle FULLY and spin the wheels quite briskly. You should now see fuel moving up the pipe to the carburetor. What’s happening is that an engine is really an ‘air-pump’; when you turn it, air goes in through the carburetor and out the exhaust. By blocking the air intake, you are preventing the air getting in and the pressure inside the carburetor drops and that ‘sucks’ the fuel in. You MUST open the throttle or this ‘choking’ trick DOES NOTHING AT ALL (many people don’t know that!)! This is because the main fuel inlet is on the ‘other side’ of the ‘throttle’. So, if it’s not open, it DOESN’T ‘suck’ the fuel in!

If fuel doesn’t come up, you need to check that all the fuel lines from the tank to the carburetor are connected properly. If the pipe/s are too stiff, they can let air in and stop the fuel from moving. Buy good quality fuel lines. Un-leaded fuel is really aggressive stuff and pipes harden very quickly if you leave it in the pipes after driving the kart. It’s a good idea to empty the fuel pipe as much as possible after each race/practice day. The pipe will last much longer this way.

Once you’ve got the fuel up to the carburetor, you can check if the fuel pump is working. Take your hand off the air intake and spin the wheels again. You should be able to see the fuel ‘moving’ very slightly in the fuel pipe. This is the action of the pump on the fuel, not the ‘choking’ reaction. It’s not a problem if there are small bubbles (up to about 1cm) in the fuel line as this is quite normal. In some ways, they are quite an advantage as you can see what’s going on with the fuel. You may need to use the ‘choking’ method BEFORE you can test the pump. To work properly, the pump should have fuel all the way up to (or very near to) the carburetor. If you have not ‘choked’ the fuel all the way to the carburetor, the fairly feeble pumping may not be strong enough to overcome the air
inside the fuel pipe.

This is a LONG explanation; but there are many other things that can still be ‘wrong’ even if everything checks out perfectly up to this point. But, if you have a FAT spark and fuel up to the carburetor, you are 90% of the way there.

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Getting Off To A Great Start

March 25, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Drive Line, Driving, handling

As a driver coach I get asked more about making great starts than any other subject. It seems that there are loads of drivers who can put together quick laps and make passing moves no problem….but they get such bad starts that the race is already ruined before the end of the first lap.

So, here is how I help some of the UK’s best drivers get great starts.

Step 1.

The key to getting a good start is confidence and self-assurance. The biggest problem for drivers at the start of a race is that they get a sensory overload. There is just way too much going on around them to be able to make the right move at the right time.

Normally to get over being overloaded I would suggest get out and practice, but there is a limited supply of race starts….you don’t get to practice starts enough. So use the next best thing. Visualisation.

Sounds like psychological rubbish I know, but frankly it works wonders with my drivers and will make your starts go much better if you take it seriously. Here’s what you need to do.

1. Take time out before your race and sit down somewhere relatively quiet. Take a look at where you are starting, who is beside you and who is in front.

2. Now make a plan of exactly how you want your start to go. Lets imagine you are starting in 8th place with a grid of 20. You need to make a plan about how your perfect start will go. Imagine that you are going to fly across the line. Pass the guy inside you going over the line and then stuff it up the inside of the 6th place kart into the first corner.

3. You need to make this plan seem real! So say to yourself exactly what’s going to happen. Make decisions about every move you are going to make.

4. Then sit there and imagine exactly how the whole of the first lap will go. And you have to imagine the best first lap ever. Passing a kart every opportunity.

Ok, so now you have a mental plan of the start, if you take it seriously you will feel a sense of confidence and power on your way to the grid. Here’s the next step.

Sit in your kart on the dummy grid. Go through the plan you made earlier and visualise that perfect first lap again. Now, the next thing is to prepare yourself to take control of the other drivers around you. Chances are they are not nearly as prepared as you are right now. So you have the advantage over them and you are the most confident driver there!

The rolling lap. This is the time to really think over how your planned start is going to happen. Focus on the kart ahead of you and stick to the rear of that kart like glue. Don’t worry if you give it a few bumps here and there…you really need to stay close.

The start. Here is the most important practical piece of advice I can give you. Whatever happens you have to go first. You have to accelerate before the driver ahead of you. Now, you might say that it’s too risky to do that because you will hit him…..But, you won’t hit him if you stick to his bumper so close that there is never any space between you! So if you push him gently over the line that’s fine, at least he didn’t get away. So, if you are always so close to the driver in front that you are touching, then you will be able to hit the gas before him without the worry that you will whack him up the arse and crash!

And once you get over the line you are into your plan. Make the moves, make that perfect first lap happen.

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Kart Race Training Part 2

March 11, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving, fitness

The Importance of Good Fitness
Go karting (and motor racing in general) is a highly physical sport. The G-forces that affect your body when taking corners can have a big impact on your neck. In extreme cases, the vertebrae in your neck can be damaged, and can also affect your arms.

The physical demands of the sport require go kart drivers to be extremely fit. As well as enabling your body to cope with the physical side of racing, fitness also allows your mind to be in tip-top condition. Physical fitness goes hand in hand with mental fitness.

Poor fitness levels often result in you getting tired quicker than your rivals, especially if they have superior fitness to you. This can have a knock-on effect for your concentration levels, which can ultimately cost you in terms of performance and results.

Recommended fitness training includes doing push-ups, sit-ups and pull-ups. The idea is to work on your general stamina and upper body strength without focusing too closely on individual areas. Cardiovascular exercises such as running and cycling are also good for building up your general fitness.

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Fitness in Karting Part 3

March 11, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving, fitness

Improving Your Racing
Strength endurance work will allow you to compete at a high level as you are less likely to feel tired and drained in the middle of a go kart race. If you skimp on the fitness work, your rivals can easily gain an advantage on you in both the physical and concentration stakes. It is not hard to see how this can impact on your performance and racing results.

Working on your fitness can help you to become a better go kart racer. Fitness work is often sidelined or ignored in favour of go karting skills as many go kart racers believe that this is the best way to improve as a go kart racer. While perfecting your go karting skills is obviously important, doing fitness work can have several benefits. Firstly, it can improve your stamina and strength endurance, which can have huge benefits for your go kart racing performances. Secondly, it can help to improve your concentration levels, as the physical and mental sides of go karting go hand in hand. The most successful go kart racers will often spend a significant amount of time doing fitness work alongside perfecting their go karting skills, which means that you will often be at a big disadvantage if you do not do this too.

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Fitness in Karting Part 2

March 11, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving, fitness

Fitness Areas to Work On
After a go kart race, it is likely that there are particular muscles that will be more uncomfortable than others. This is an indication that you should pay more attention to them in your fitness work. The G-forces that affect your body during go karting can play havoc on your neck muscles if you do not spend time incorporating it into your fitness work. It is possible for the vertebrae in your neck to be damaged as a result of the G-forces. Your arms can also be affected. Focusing on your upper body should be a big part of your fitness work, followed by strength endurance work.

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Fitness in karting Part 1

March 11, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving, fitness

Doing fitness work is an essential part of becoming a successful go kart racer. Go kart racing is a very physical type of sport, despite the fact that people who are not involved in the sport often feel that this is not the case. Many karters overlook fitness work in favor of perfecting their driving skills. This is often a mistake though, as working on your fitness can go a long way towards making you a more all-round go karter.

Becoming an All-round Go Kart Racer
Your average go kart race can be very demanding in terms of the physical stress that your body is placed under. As well as the physical side of things, go kart racing is also mentally demanding as you need to be fully concentrating at all times. You will generally find that the more successful go kart racers have better fitness than those who concentrate predominantly on their racing skills. If you want to improve your go karting skills, working on both is highly recommended.

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Wet Racing

January 28, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving, kart setup

Wet Racing – Usually, the club or other facility you are racing with will let you know what specific tire is to be used during a wet race. This is pretty fool proof; but unless you were wondering, it’s against ASN regulations to use modified, grooved or altered dry tires. A good tip to remember when racing in the rain is to move in your rear tires. There is a minimum width that ASN states it must be for dry racing, but this is waived for wet racing as long as the axle doesn’t stick out the end, which would most definitely be a pretty dangerous situation! For more information on axels and how to move your rear tires in, visit our section in the karting guide.

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How To Win Your Race Part 3

January 14, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving

5. Once you’re on the track, your focus has now switched to the green flag. As soon as that flags falls you need to be ready to step on it! Getting a good start is a crucial part of any race. Be ready for it.

6. Once you’re actually racing, try and stay calm, cool and focused on the kart in front of you. Always be thinking ahead about how you might overcome or hold off an opposing go kart. Also, always be ready for them to make a mistake. Every time they slip up, you are given an opportunity to make a move. Take advantage of this factor and stay focused so you aren’t the one slipping up! This will be your key to winning the race or finishing ahead of those you have been racing with all year.

Of course we aren’t saying that by doing these things you are sure to win your next go karting race, however, these steps should help you to stay calm, cool and confident. These three things are crucial for a racer! Hopefully they have been of some assistance to you.

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Some Kart Math

January 14, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving

ADVANCED CONCEPTS
Shortening the turn is one way to speed up your turns. If you remember your basic geometrical math at school, the circumference of a circle is 2 x pi x radius. What does this mean to a karter? Well if you rotate a kart on a radius of 3 foot, in a full circle, then you actually travel 2 x (3.14) x 3 ft = 18.84 feet. If you rotate on a 4 foot radius then you travel 25.12 feet and on a 2ft radius then you travel a total of 12.56 feet. You can see that IF (thats a big IF) you can shorten your arc AND find a way to hold traction and carry the same speed as another driver who is taking a wider line, then you can shave feet off your total distance travelled and therefore time and distance upon them over the course of a race. Now it doesnt have to be feet that we’re talking about here.. consider if you were able to travel just 1 inch tighter over a track of say 12 x 90 degree turns, then you are actually turning a total of 3 full circles. That would mean you could gain per lap … 3 circles x 2 x (3.14) x 1 inch = 18.84 inches. And over a 20 lap race that would come out to, 31.4 feet advantage.

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How To Win Your Race Part 2

January 12, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving

3. Try to pay attention to the race officials. It sucks to be last on the grid or have people waiting for you because you missed the call while you were having a conversation with that cute girl from the next pit over. So try to resist and pay attention! The day will go much smoother overall if you’re on time.

4. Before you get on the grid it’s a good idea to take a look at the track, sit down, and quietly get in the zone. This might seem weird but every go karter should try it at least once if they don’t already do it. Try and just visualize the track in your mind so that once you get out there it will seem easy! Like you’ve done it one hundred times before. This is especially crucial if you are at a track you’ve never visited before. You should really take the time to study the track in this case.

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Kart Setup Primer

January 09, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - chassis, Driving, handling, kart setup

Go Kart Set Up can be a pain if you aren’t prepared. Many beginners who buy go karts for racing are overwhelmed when it comes down to the last week before racing season and the kart hasn’t been set up yet! What do you do!? The main thing is to not make too many adjustments at one time. You will need to keep notes of all you changes and test on the track between each change. If you make more then a couple changes as you get closer to fine tuning, you won’t know which one was the one that made you faster. It is also important that you have your line set at the track you are testing at. It makes no sense to see improvements in your lap time come from driving a better line now. The answer is simple as long as you follow important steps and make sure you have everything you’re going to need. We will detail those out tomorrow.

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Kart Passing

January 07, 2010 :: Posted by - gnomepark :: Category - Driving, handling, kart setup

Overtaking or go kart passing is a very important part of go kart racing. There will be countless numbers of opportunities to pass and be passed every time you head out to the track. Whether it’s during a practice, or during the final points race of the season, passing needs to be smooth and efficient.

Preparing Before Hand:

During a practice or qualifying session on the track, it is a good idea to consciously look for places on the track that you might be able to pass on. Consider the line you would drive in a situation you might pass and practice it a few times. This way, when you start the race you already have a plan of how your going to get up to the front in the least time possible.

The Basics:

The most likely way you are going to be able to pass someone on the track is if you are able to out-brake, or out-accelerate you opponent. Here is an example of how one might go about passing an opponent into a turn:

1. Out Braking into a Corner:
The title is pretty much self explanatory. You have to be able to out-brake your opponent into the corner so that you have the advantage on the inside. You will have a tighter line and will be able to pull away with your speed coming out of the corner.

*Important* – Avoid “Diving” into the corner to avoid an accident. As a general rule, make sure that the person you plan on overtaking has seen you and knows not to turn into you overtake them. If you are not at least level with the other go karter before they start turning in, back off. Other wise, you may cause an accident and be disqualified.

2. Out-Accelerating out of the Corner:
Your goal when using this method of overtaking is to use a wider line going into the corner so that you may start to accelerate before your opponent. The goal is to be heading straight forward on the throttle as your opponent is just coming out of the corner.

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