Starting the Kart at the Track
Starting is all about getting the kart moving forward and KEEPING it moving forward until it’s able to accelerate way on its own.
To make life easier, make sure everything is ready BEFORE you start pushing. You will have checked the spark is good and ‘fat’ and that the fuel is getting to the carburetor BEFORE getting to the track. Now make life easier by getting the fuel up to the carburetor BEFORE you start pushing. You can do this by 'rocking' the rear wheels back and forth while 'choking' (as discussed before). DO NOT MAKE THE ENGINE TURN OVER BY HAND; it may well START and trap your hands! You can do this while sitting in the seat or with the kart on the stand. Once the fuel is up and ready, we're nearly ready to push the kart.
There are two basic methods:
1) Driver Seated
2) Driver Running!
DRIVER SEATED
Lucky (or rich drivers) have two pushers, but one is plenty, if he is reasonably fit and sensible and he really does not need to be an ‘Arnold Schwarzeneggar’! There’s no way round it, the angle and the task is not good for the pusher’s back; those with troubled backs or hernias should NOT apply! It’s also a good idea for the pusher to do a few backstretches before he goes for each new attempt.
Firstly, get the driver to lean right OVER the steering wheel. The driver should attempt to grab the FRONT bumper! This moves the weight forward and makes the pusher's job MUCH easier. You can improve on this if the driver sits on the front EDGE of the seat as well as leaning over. It makes the kart 'feel' about HALF the weight to the pushers and this is VERY worthwhile
Lifting
The driver should also try this bit so he can see that the pushers have to do. It's all about getting your bum as LOW as possible.
The Wrong Way
With a driver seated, try placing your feet so that both of your legs just touching the rear bumper and both hands are on the bumper and then lift the kart. You'll find that you can only move very slowly forward in small steps as you keep banging your ankles on the bumper. You'll also notice that the pusher's center of gravity is almost over the rear bumper. This is OBVIOUSLY the wrong way to do it! However, this is exactly what all beginners do; hence their problems starting the kart!
The Right Way
With a driver seated, stand with your RIGHT foot under the rear bumper and your LEFT foot about 3/4s of a metre back. Place your right hand on the bumper (to lift it) and your LEFT hand on the back of the seat, just to steady yourself. You'll only be lifting the kart with your RIGHT hand. You'll now notice that your bum is MUCH lower than before and that you don't bang your ankles on the bumper. Ideally, the pushers want to look as HIGH into the sky as possible by 'craning' their necks back as far as they can go! The pushers **** MUST NOT **** look down at the kart or the track! You'll notice that, the higher the pusher looks:
1) the lower their bums are
2) the further back they will have moved their left foot .
3) the further back their center of gravity has moved
This will allow them NOT to fall over when they have started the kart; more about this later. KEEP THEM LOOKING UP!
Oddly enough, when you get used to this, you'll find that you lean DOWN with the LEFT hand on the back of the seat while you are LIFTING the kart with your RIGHT hand. This lets the pusher’s Centre of Gravity even further back and leaning forward on the back of the seat (with the left hand) is the start of the PUSHING action
Lift and Push
An engine does not want to turn over as the compression is holding the piston 'back'. We lift the kart so we can get some forward momentum that will be enough to overcome the compression resistance. We don't have to move very far forward before we hit the ground as a walking pace is enough to do the job of overcoming the initial resistance! Similarly, we don't need to lift it very high, just enough to get the kart moving without the friction of the rear wheels. About 5 cm is the MAXIMUM you need to lift. Any more than that and the nose cone will be rubbing on the ground, which makes it harder.
The first part of the pusher's job is to lift the kart, move forward about 1 metre and then PUSH it down and forward onto the track. They should be prepared to CONTINUE pushing for a good few metres; their job has not finished…….. YET!
Now for the driver! Engines need a mixture of Fuel and Air at a specific ratio to run. The colder the air (and the engine) the MORE fuel is needed in that ratio. Stone cold engines on a cold day need MUCH more fuel in the mixture than hot engines on a hot day. Older cars were fitted with a Choke Knob or Lever to adjust this ratio, nowadays, that ‘choke’ is automatic. Karts don't have automatic chokes (most don't have ANY sort of choke!) so you need to be your OWN choke. It's as the name implies, you are trying to STRANGLE (choke!) the engine by cutting off its air supply. You do this by placing the FLAT of your hand over the air intake. What happens is that the air can't get in so any 'suction' inside the carburetor pulls in extra fuel instead. Remember to open the throttle FULLY or choking is a complete waste of time!
Just before the pushers start their work you should have your hand OVER the air intake but NOT actually closing the intake off just yet. I just rest my fingers on the casing/airbox so that I can choke if I need to without frantically searching for the opening. Once you're helmeted and seated, it can be hard to find the air intake in a hurry, so: Be Prepared!.
As the kart hits the ground, slide back into a proper seating position. You will have previously warned the pushers to move their hand AWAY from the back of the seat once the kart has hit the ground or your will TRAP them as you sit back! If they get trapped, you will drag them along the pit lane, not too much fun that! Get them to transfer their hands (smoothly) to your shoulders and KEEP pushing and KEEP LOOKING UP!!!!!!! Make their job easier by not leaning QUITE ALL the way back; if they've forgotten about getting trapped, you have allowed them some freedom to escape.
The driver’s work starts here! It’s highly possible that you won’t need any choke and that choking at all will stall the engine. It’s also highly possible that it will need a LOT of choking. You will gain experience and be able to judge this for you self with practice. However, as a beginner it’s worth getting into a routine based on the distance that you have been pushed!
1) 0 to 5 metres
Don’t Choke. Just start increasing the throttle setting, (if it fires, go to point 4)
2) 6 to 30 metres
Go to full choke (hand firmly over the intake) and FULL THROTTLE, if it fires, lift your hand away from the intake but keep it hovering over the intake just in case it stalls again. (If it fires, go to point 4)
3) 31 metres onward
If your pusher is still going, take your hand away from the inlet (but ‘hover’) and give FULL THROTTLE. If you have prepared as discussed and you have been choking for 30 metres, it’s more than likely that the engine is now flooded rather than being starved of fuel. Full throttle will allow the engine to dry out a little and it may fire IF your pusher can keep going! (If it fires go to point 4).
4) The engine fires
Once it fires, lift your hand a SHORT distance away from the air intake so as to let in unrestricted air but still with your hand ‘hovering’, to be ready to apply full choke if the engine tries to stall as it may WELL do! If you've put your hand back on the steering, wheel it's much more of a game to re-find the air intake before it stalls.
Obviously, when it starts to fire, you will 'un-choke' (if you have been) and you should also REDUCE the throttle position. It is WRONG to accelerate away at FULL throttle within the pits! Out on the track, it's OK if it's safe (no pushers ahead of you) but that happens all too rarely! It's also a very clear sign of lack of mechanical sympathy. Anyone who accelerates an engine (cold OR hot) to full throttle and full revs immediately after starting shows they do not understand ANYTHING about engines! If you see people do this, simply think "IMBECILE!". The list of disasters that can go wrong by abusing your engine in this way is longer than this article!
Remember! Be Prepared! The engine may well try to stall, just put your hand back over the intake and go to full throttle again.
This is why the pushers MUST keep pushing until they can't stay with you! Many engines will stall even after they have started and a 'dead' kart in the middle of the starting straight is NOT much fun for those trying to start their karts behind you. You will find that many karters behind you are looking back at their carburetor as they start their engines and they will drive straight INTO your stationary kart! (I can never imagine what they hope to see back there! Drivers: keep looking FORWARD!) If your pushers are still behind you, the following karts crush your pusher's ankles against your rear bumper; NICE! Tell your pushers they MUST, MUST, MUST KEEP RUNNING once you have started and to CHECK behind them as they RUN off the side of the track/pit lane! All this is just common sense but you would not BELIEVE how RARE that is on a kart track!
As the kart starts, the point of your pushers having a ‘low bum’ and their Center of Gravity as far back as possible comes into play. If they are looking down, with both feet together, they will FALL OVER when the kart starts! If they are looking at the sky, they will be able to stand up and keep running!! The choice is theirs!
If there are only two of you, your pusher MAY not have enough strength to lift and push you. It's not that hard once you've practiced but may well be completely beyond a beginner. There are many alternatives:-
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